Sheer Black Set With Attitude

I’ve been doing so much testing I decided it was time to give myself a new challenge and keep myself occupied until our next trip in the motorhome. Some interesting rtw designs popped up on my feed that I really liked the look of so I decided to have a go at replicating the look and feel of one particular set.

So here is my finished set. Read on if you want to see how I achieved this.

I started with the bra and it was quite a long process to come up with the pattern pieces so I’ve put this initial part in the following short video.

Bra design from sketch to pattern pieces including test make.

Using the drafted pattern pieces together with the adjusted pieces from the Orange Lingerie Boylston I made up all the separate elements. As with the test I used two layers of sheer cup lining for the cup and frame and a single layer for the straps. To achieve the desired sleek look I used a matt fold over elastic from Bratastic Fabrics. I was then ready to put together the cups.

The quarter foam cup was perfect but the middle section just didn’t sit right. The problem was that the black foam had far more stretch than the beige I had used in the test. The middle picture shows the piece cut with the stretch horizontally on the bottom. The straighter piece is cut with the stretch in the opposite direction but applying the fold over elastic in the same direction top and bottom, so as not to distort, but I didn’t keep enough tension. To correct this I had to undo the bottom fold over elastic and apply as I normally would.

With the middle piece now correct I could attach the long strap piece, to which I had already applied the fold over elastic, to the inside edge. I then inserted the cups into the frame and attached the back bands. Unlike my test make I straightened off the bridge but once I was in a position to try on the strap elastic I had used for bottom did not have enough stretch to be comfortable so I separated the elastic from the bridge and raised as far as I could to its original shape.

Having used soft fabrics rather than strap elastic for the front strapping detail I managed to achieve the desired look and the result was incredibly comfortable. So onto the rest of the set. The rtw design was a harness suspender with some very strappy underwear which I thought looked cluttered with all the straps on the bra so my idea was to attach the suspender to the bra with a g hook at the centre front and to the back fastener. For the underwear I thought of The Lingerie Formula Forget-Me-Not Cheeky Cut Panty which I had made before and had fabric straps like the bra. The challenge was how to make this!

I hadn’t made suspenders before and the pattern I already had but not used sat higher up on the waist than I wanted. I thought of the Evle la Luve Jamie Bodysuit which had exactly the shape I wanted for the suspenders, although I needed to add the centre front bodice shape taken from the waist to the bridge to the bottom piece. Next I needed to shape from the hip at the sides and arch to sit above the upper edge of the underwear and then remove the straps from the side and make the back come around to the front straps.

I decided to make the underwear first so I could finalise the shape for the suspender. I made two adjustments to the pattern pieces as I thought the enclosed gusset seam would not look good on the plain black fabric from BWear I was using. I joined the two pieces together eliminating the front seam but leaving the gusset enclosed at the back. Next I had to decide how much to add to the back piece to bring it around to the front with the width being determined by the two strap pieces that would be attached.

With the front and back made up I had to decide how to attach the back to the front enclosing the straps . I used some wide fold over elastic and enclosed the back seam leaving tails either end. I then placed the straps behind and folded over the ends to join at the back. This worked beautifully and was a perfect match for the bra so on to the final element. This was going to be more of a challenge as for me at least it was more of an experiment.

I tried on the bodysuit over the bra and underwear and measured from the waist elastic to the bottom of the bridge. Using an erasable marker I drew roughly where I wanted the shaping for the suspenders and then I transferred the markings to the original pattern and traced off the sections I wanted. After making up the waist elastic using the original instructions I made a quick test version using some scraps of lace fabric. The top piece was fine but I need to scoop more out of the arch to sit above the underwear.

Once I had the front pattern piece finalised I played around with the placement of the panel pieces and when I was happy with the placement I traced off adding seam allowances. To give some support I used two layers of mesh basted together. Rather than have lots of unsightly seams I added the fabric pieces on top of the mesh, marked the seam allowances, folded under and basted. I placed the pattern piece underneath so I could see where to place the pieces and basted in place and used my edge foot so I could sew right to the edge of the fold.

As the fabric is very fine I decided to use strap elastic for the final panels as this would cover the horizontal pieces better. Then I attached fold over elastic all over. To attach to the bra I used twill tape to create a tab under the bridge that would not be seen or affect the use as a bra on its own. I attached a g hook to the top and narrowed the very top down so it lay flat over the g hook. At this point I could try it on and decide how long to make the straps.

All the hard work paid off and it looks stunning on. I’m still busy testing for some great designers as well as working on my classes for the Bra Bee. So I have a lot to fit in between trips out in the motorhome but I do want to spend some time making clothes as I’m hoping to start wearing dresses and skirts again.

Matching Bras for my Great Bra Sewing Bee Panty Inspiration Class

Some of you may have watched my “Panty Inspiration” class on the Great Bra Sewing Bee where the brief was to show how to recreate the look of your favourite rtw with commercially available patterns and supplies. I made up some of the designs from the class into finished makes, they turned out so gorgeous that I decided to make bras to match. So here is a round up of the sets, the patterns and supplies used and the changes I made to the patterns to recreate the look.

This first set is inspired by the Maison Lejayby Nufit range which is described as “undetectable under the slimmest clothes” and in particular those with a combination of plain jersey and floral stretch tulle. I had a lot of requests for “pretty and comfortable” and I thought these fit the bill perfectly. Just prior to preparing the class I had received my order including this beautiful floral mesh from Madalynne which is really super soft. Already in my stash I had a similar wide tri-band elastic from Bra Builders. The look is described as “sporty chic” so I opted to use mesh rather than jersey for a completely sheer look.

For the high waist full coverage briefs I used the Ohhhlulu Grace which is a hipster but when you add the wide band elastic it sits at the same place on the waist as the rtw. I reshaped the front pieces as the pattern has a straight seam and I wanted to introduce the curve.

The bra, described as a triangular soft cup, is a darted one piece cup finished with fold over elastic and partially adjustable straps. The pattern that immediately came to mind was the Emerald Erin Jordy which is a triangular two piece sitting on a wide elastic band. I do love this pattern and have made all the versions but for this make I was looking for more coverage around the side so I decided to adapt the free Madalynne Barrett pattern which is described as “sporty femme”. You can adapt most patterns to be a darted one piece cup but they can end up a little pointy if you are not careful.

I didn’t used fold over elastic for two reasons. Firstly, I didn’t have enough in the right colour and secondly, I prefer the support of plush picot when using stretch fabrics in the cups.

I started with the changes to the Barrett front.` As you can see from one I made a few weeks ago, the centre front has a triangular cut out. So on the pattern piece I drew a line down to establish the centre front. Next using my curved ruler I shaped the front to drop to the bottom edge for a plunge neckline and then added the width of my picot elastic. On the bottom edge I added 1/8” as I wanted slightly more overlap than the 1/4” seam allowance.

The Barrett is a pull on bralette but I wanted a back closure so I used the back piece from my Madalynne Fenix Bodysuit as a size guide. I put my fastener and elastic on the line to work out the depth of the band needed at this point and then I added on the width of my elastic and drew a straight line up to the top edge.

With my pattern pieces ready I proceeded to make up as normal. To stop any spillage I like to overlap the cups at the centre front. Firstly, I basted in place before overlocking along the bottom edge. Overlocking not only finishes off the raw edges but acts as a guideline for overlapping the band elastic. Then for reinforcement, after I attached the band, I stitched in a triangle around the overlap.

Moving on to the next set which took a little more thinking through. Hannah, of EvielaLuve, had classes on both strappy bralettes and panties so I decided to go for something a little different. The satin ribbon detail of the Aubade Courbes Divine Short, which translates to divine curves, is another cute design without compromising the comfort and/or fit. I love the description for this one, “The contrast in lace panelling creates alternating transparency which shows the skin and combined with the cut-out detail with decorative lattice creates the ultimate sexy brief.

I adjusted the Studio Costura Eva for the brief by lowering the waist and creating a fabric panel for the front as well as extending the lace panels to meet the bottom of the ribbon detail.

The collection has two bra styles, a plunge and a half cup. With the plunge the lattice detail was accommodated on the side which is mostly hidden so I thought I would try to recreate a lattice bridge. In putting together the class I became very aware of how different camera angles affect the look. It wasn’t until I scrolled through the images that I could see that the padding curved up into the arm. I have previously used the Orange Lingerie Devonshire to alter from a balconette to a half cup but for my size this wouldn’t leave enough room for the lattice so I made it as the balconette. I took a little out of the curve of the vertical seam using the 34C overlaid over the 34D pattern pieces but kept the height for the coverage I prefer. Vertical seams are great for uplift.

First, I made up the lace cup as per the pattern instructions and then moved on to the shaped padding. Then I used my usual method of making up a full foam cup, holding it against me and drawing on the shape I am looking for. Next I cut along the drawn line and this became my pattern piece. I didn’t have a good enough colour match with the sheer lining I had so I used some bias binding I had in my stash to cover the top edge of the foam.

I used a similar method for the lattice but, unlike the open back of the brief, the bra needed a backing to the ribbon so it would retain it’s shape. To design the lattice I drew the bridge on tear away stabiliser in similar proportions to the brief but I had to narrow slightly to fit the crisscross within the width at the top of the bridge. I placed two layers of sheer lining over the stabiliser and stitched along the outline of the pattern piece. Next I attached the ribbon, stitching in place along the marked lines. Then I placed fabric pieces, with the seam allowances folded under, over the ribbon and again stitched in place along the marked lines. Finally, to create the bridge, I cut along the original stitching marking the pattern piece.

To finish the bra I followed the pattern instructions except on the second pass of the band elastic I didn’t sew over the sheer lining. I stitched from the front with a small zigzag with matching thread so I didn’t have red stitching showing through.

To complete the look I finished with bows at the strap attachment and I think it turned out pretty perfect. The shape is amazing. Red is always a difficult colour to match but the elastic and lace from Sew Wardrobe were a perfect match. So on to the next set.

This set is recreating the look from another Aubade design called the Aubade à l’Amour Pearlized collection. For the class I made both a shorty using the Day Dream Nora hipster, with the detail on the back as shown, and the brief, with the detail on the front. There are three bras in the collection, a push up half cup, a bandeau and what is described as a comfort full cup. My initial thought was to make the bandeau version with mesh gathered across the front using the Afi Atelier Exquisite Butterfly addon but it wouldn’t really require much adjustment and I wanted a bra with smoother lines for under clothing. Also I didn’t want another padded bra so I went with the look of the full cup using fabric and lace I had left.

The pattern I had which was most like the design was The BraMakery Chloe but I knew I needed to take some of the fullness out for a better fit so I decided to use a similar pattern, the Merckwaerdigh Wings. I had bought this at the start of my bra making journey but never got around to making other than a test size but was recently reminded that I had bought quite a few of Merckwaerdigh’s patterns when I saw a post on Instagram.

To match the shorty I was going to use the scalloped edge lace for the upper cup only and then the honeycomb stretch mesh for the rest. I also didn’t have enough lace to use on the band. To start with I made the lace cups and then I made the side and lower cup in foam to place around the cup. This was to help me decide the shape and size of the mesh panel and again I drew a line and cut along for the pattern piece. After studying the various images I decided the mesh wasn’t actually gathered but the stretch fabric would do this with the pull from the strap when worn.

To use the mesh for the base of the bridge I fused to sheer lining with Misty Fuse. I marked on the bridge where the lace cup piece would end. Then I cut two pieces of the fabric to create the v adding a seam allowance to be folded over and then sewed the centre seam again using Misty Fuse to stop the stretch fabric moving. I carefully marked on both the cup and bridge where the pieces would meet.

I made the side pieces the same way fusing the fabric to the sheer lining and enclosed the seams using another layer of sheer lining. The perfectly aligned front was well worth the effort. The pattern has large lace wings for a bare back look but with no lace left I adjusted the pattern for a regular leotard shape using just the powernet. The straps also feature gathered mesh. I have made straps similar to this before but decided to use no gathers for a smoother look but still used mesh to create the illusion of continuing up from the mesh sides.

I cut two 12” pieces of elastic the same width as the strap tab and strips of mesh twice the width with seam allowances added. Next I sewed the mesh strips right sides together and then turned through. Then I threaded the elastic through and marked intervals of 2 1/2” to sew across to hold the mesh in place. I attached to the strap tab right sides together and pushed the seam allowance down and sewed through all layers.

Finally I made some plain adjustable straps for the back. I tried on to decide how long to leave the front strap to allow for enough adjustment at the back. I was thrilled with how it turned out especially the soft gathers of the mesh sides when worn. I just to need to embroider some bee decorations for the straps to match the back.

I know it’s a long post but I have one more set to share with you. Another frequent request is how to achieve the look of no vpl briefs. Most designs are very plain but I really liked the Marks and Spencer “Smoothing No VPL Brazilian Knicker”

For the class I used the Studio Costura Mia which is also a brazilian cut. I split out the front into a lace and fabric panel and angled my lace a little lower for more coverage at the front. For the legs I used double sided fusible elastic and instead of a bound waistband I used some really pretty fold over elastic.

I have a couple of patterns that are designed for preformed foam cups which are used in the “Smoothing” bra. Bra Makers Supply have a full frame pattern but I used the Orange Lingerie Mystic which is a partial band and required fewer adjustments.

Moulded cups are really hard to get hold of in my size so I decided to make use of the cups from a rtw where the band and bridge had stretched out after only a couple of wears. I took the bra apart and recycled the wires as well. What I found interesting was that the fabric covers were also moulded.

To recreate the look you need some really stretch fabric like the microlycra I was using from Bra Builders. The first step is to add some stable fabric to the bottom of the cup for the seam allowance as the foam itself cannot be folded. Then you have to stretch the fabric over the cup without causing it to collapse. It takes a bit of time but you have to keep going around stretching until you get all the wrinkles out. The pattern then has you cut around and then attach to the back of the cup and roll around to the front and then start the process all over again. Sometimes this can create a bit of bulk at the neck edge. So I first stitched in place all around the cup with the foam side up except for the top edge. For the top edge I used 3/8” double sided tape on the foam side and pushed the fabric over the top and onto the tape. Then I cut the loose fabric back to the tape.

As the wires are shorter than those used in the pattern I had to shorten the bridge and construct in a slightly different way to use the scallop edge of the lace. First, I fused the lace to a piece of sheer lining then I cut out another piece of sheer lining and turned up the bottom seam allowance. I attached the two pieces right sides together at the top edge and then flipped the front over and sewed across the bottom edge catching the turned up seam allowance.

As my wires were also shorter at the side I had to adjust the height of the side frame before combining with the back band using the Orange Lingerie Berkeley band as a guide. Rather than use picot elastic which can be bulky on the foam I used fold over elastic to finish the upper edge. I really like the slightly wider and stronger elastic from Emerald Erin and remembered I had bought some in the new the blush pink colour which was was a great match. To complete the smooth appearance I attached the strap direct onto the foam cup and created an adjustable strap by attaching a small piece of strap elastic to the height of the band for the ring attachment.

So that is my matching bra sets done! What to do next?

Meet the Vivien Bra - a stunning new pattern by Annie and Myras

The last few weeks have been very exciting as I have tried out some amazing new patterns. The first was the beautifully named Vivien Bra. Jennie, of Annie and Myras, kindly sent me the pattern pieces in my size to try out. So here we have both variations as I just had to make both.

"Classy with a side order of danger!” is how Jennie describes the Vivien, “designed to create a pretty and feminine bra yet whilst still aiming to provide support for those with large cup volumes, and smaller back frames.” The main cup has a vertical centre seam and a power bar which can be placed under or over the main cup pieces. You buy the cups for each style separately with the band and instructions being another package.

Variation 1 was released first so I will start with this. The frame size is the average of the full bust and underbust with the cup the difference between the frame and fullbust. At 30” underbust this was at the bottom end of the 34 frame size so, as the instructions suggested, I went with the 32 band and I was glad I did. The “Super Geeky” Wire Chart at the back of the instructions was really helpful and came up with the 32e for the band and my 38 wire size although the measuring system would have put me in a d cup. I made up a 32e cup in foam and decided to use this.

Included in my last order from BWear was this very pretty lace which comes in left and right pieces for mirroring and I thought it would be perfect for this pattern. As the top of the seam is pretty straight you can match your lace across the top which is very aesthetically pleasing. The instructions construct the cup by sewing the seams on the lace and lining separately and then putting wrong sides together, topstitching either side of the seam through all layers. I tried this but didn’t like how it looked with the sheer lace so I undid everything and enclosed the seam, topstitching and trimming back to the stitching for a uniform look from both sides.

There are so many options for the bridge and powerbar but the pattern includes detailed instructions for every possibility. As my lace was directional I chose not to use the scalloped edge for the bridge but tried to find a section that would flow from one cup to the other. The next choice was to use duoplex for the powerbar on the inside of the cup rather than the lace as I thought that using here too would be too fussy for the delicate sheer look of the main lace cup.

I was blown away by the shape and fit of the bra although I had to fasten on the tightest hook to get the snug fit I prefer. For this reason I would definitely make this style first as I knew exactly what size to make the back for the front closing variation. Also, you can test the cup without having to worry about the front closure.

With just small pieces of the lace left I had to think carefully how I could make a matching set. I started with the smallest side to see how much I could cover the Orange Lingerie Kingston thong. I chalked a line down the centre, laid the other side on top to match and sewed down the chalk mark and this gave a piece to cut for an overlay. I cut out the front panel in mesh, attached to the gusset and finished the leg elastic. Then I placed the lace overlay so the scallop sat on the elastic, zigzagged down and finished as normal.

The Kingston is a perfect complement for the Vivien and one of my go to patterns for the non stretch lace used in a bra.

So moving on to Variation 2. I was just so excited to try this one as I have wanted to try a front closure for quite a while, as although I have used a front closure on a sports bra that was then covered with a zip up outer top. The plunge neckline adds to the drama. I also loved the idea of adapting to a one piece darted cup which looks better with lots of lace. Again, I have done this before but the plunge neckline requires a little thought as to the placement on the scallop and Jennie was kind enough to help. I tested out the cup on some scraps as you have to be careful not to end up with a pointy cup. I end the dart with a couple of stitches on the edge of the fabric. Then I pressed and placed over the foam cup I had made for the first bra to check the shape.

I was not expecting the choice of lace to be as problematic as it turned out to be. The outer cup in the size I was making is quite deep so some of the laces I had thought of using didn’t work as the opposite side of the embroidered tulle hit the bottom of the cup as in the first picture, below. For the second the teardrops are all in one direction so would be in different directions at the dart. This left the cream lace so I actually cut out the cups. Unfortunately the contrast between the sheer parts and the embroidered dots didn’t sew well on the dart and the seam allowance was too obvious. Then I tried basting the lining to the lace and using as one layer but I still didn’t like how it looked. So then I remembered some lace from another BWear kit.

Completely sheer but with more of an overall lightly stitched embroidery design this lace is perfect. I made the cups up first just to check how the dart looked. I did topstitch down and trim back to the stitching for a uniform look on the right side. Next I tackled the closure. The instructions suggest ribbon for smaller sizes but I decided to use the lace. I used Misty Fuse to permanently adhere a piece of lace to a more opaque sheer lining and then lined with the one I used for the cup. I drew around the pattern piece and then stitched 1/4” in from the top and bottom lines, cut around the pattern piece and turned through to the right side.

Attaching to the cups was fiddly. Not only is there a lot of bulk in there but the fastener does get in the way of the foot. I did try with my zipper foot but there was no way it was going through the bulk. I handstitched them tightly in place after a couple of attempts to get both sides level.

Moving on to the powerbar, I had already adjusted the pattern piece as I wanted to this to be the same width of the strap elastic I had chosen. It was only an 1/8” but it is something that annoys me. Again because the lace is so sheer I decided not to use it for the powerbar as well. Rather than duoplex I used the more opaque sheer lining as the right side, keeping the sheer look but not seeing the arm elastic too clearly. The ruffle strapping really suits the style of the bra.

With the bra done I had just a small piece of lace left and I decided to use the same overlay but this time on the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief. The pattern has an enclosed front seam but the back is open and can be bulky when overlocked. So I decided to construct the same way as the Ohhhlulu Claudia.

Normally the front is enclosed between the gusset and lining and the leg elastic attached to this before sewing the back seam. Instead I enclosed the back before attaching the elastic. As you can see in the photo the gusset is wider by the width of the elastic. Then I attached the elastic to the leg. For the second pass I folded under the end and hand stitch down and pressed which reduces the bulk for sewing and ensures the elastic does not move out of place.

Another beautiful set completed. Having made V1 I was pretty sure V2 would fit perfect too but I have to say the plunge neckline with darted cup is my favourite but I will definitely be making more of both.

More pattern releases to come!

Pattern Drafting, Sketches and New Year's Resolutions

It’s been a while since I last posted but I’ve had a manic few weeks of doing so many new things so I thought it was time to take a break and journal all the makes. My New Year’s Resolutions were to take time to practice sketching designs, further develop skills to take designs to patterns and explore different approaches to drafting. So here is what I have achieved so far.

The year got off to a good start as Porcelynne had a week long Draft Along which was live drafting using the method in Jennifer’s book Bare Essentials. This was drafting from measurements to create a fitting pattern that could then be turned into a sloper to create any design. Alternatively you can use your fitted Eve cup, or any other well fitting pattern, to create the sloper, which I had already done, but was interested to see how the two would compare.

What I took away from the week was a better understanding of how to manipulate patterns I already had and this set is my first attempt to take an idea through to a finished make.

Although this method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for bra drafting, for most of us, the first draft is a starting point. My initial draft had a similar shape to my Eve but needed some work to get a good fit. I had my Tailormade TMCollaBRAtory January kit to use and an idea for the design so I thought I could make a sloper from my perfect fitting Emerald Erin Black Beauty. The first step was to integrate the strap part of the power bar into the upper cup.

I wanted to create a diagonal seam through the apex which would create a super powerbar side with a curved lace upper cup. To help decide where to place the seam I used a technique I had seen in Beverly Johnson’s Bra-makers Manual where you make up a cup in foam and draw the style lines and cut up. Using the Bare Essentials method I then had to put the curves back on. I made up a test cup to check the fit both in terms of cup size and that it fit into the frame. So I was ready to use the beautiful lingerie satin kit.

Before I decided where to use the lace on the bra I cut out the lace back for the Ohhhlulu Claudia which is a great pattern where you can use the non stretch fabric of your bra on the small front panel. I often size up with the Claudia depending on the stretch of my lace and whether the front panel has any stretch at all.

The next set came about because I had run out of regular wires and thought why not try drafting for the short/demi/plunge wires I did have and use the kit for my February TMCollaBRAtory. I sketched a few ideas for front closing, partial bands with strappy backs but then realised I needed to get the basics right first.

The band draft was straight forward but I was struggling with the cups so I decided to look through the many patterns I have and see if I could use them. The idea was a lace cup with a separate foam lower cup with a push up effect.

I first came up with using the Madalynne X Simplicity 8436 which is a partial band for stretch lace which I had made a while ago. So I adjusted the cups to fit my full band draft. Then I needed a foam lower cup piece. The answer was the Porcelynne Ariel cup which is a three piece cup for a lovely round shape. So I made up the full cup in foam and inserted into the band with the lace over and as before drew on the style I wanted. This took off most of the upper cup so I adjusted the middle piece to incorporate the bits of the upper cup I needed.

I made up the other cup from my new pattern pieces, lined the lace cup, attached elastic to the neckline and finished the rest of the bra. From this I narrowed the bridge, created a gothic arch and narrowed the band as far as I could so it would appear to be a partial band. For that push up look I also tried making some cookies from Beverly Johnson’s class but the fit was so good I don’t think they are needed.

With all the pattern pieces adjusted I moved onto the beautiful lace kit for my February TMCollaBRAtory project. As I used the lace for the back band as well as the full lace cups I only had a small piece left to make a set. I instantly thought of the EvielaLuve Chloe thong which I had adapted for a comfier fit! I checked how much of the pattern piece I could cover before I cut out the front piece in mesh. I placed the lace over the mesh so that the scallop would sit below the fold over elastic and cut around. This left a tiny piece to partial cover the back. The fit and look of this set is sensational and I have plans to make it again very soon.

Moving on to my latest make which could be a blog post on its own but I think I will include it here. It wasn’t what I planned to make next but this mustard and black kit from Diane’s Bratastic Fabrics had such great Art Deco vibes that I decided to run with it.

I had already bought some Sashiko inspired embroidery designs from Designs by Juju that I wanted to try out on lingerie satin so the idea was to try a find a design that would work with the lace. A posting on FB reminded me of the Orange Lingerie Lansdowne which I intended to revisit to get a good fit but more importantly the large lower cup would be perfect.

I started by altering the pattern to fit which meant taking a wedge out of the underarm and altering the back band. Then I stitched out a few of the designs to see which worked best with the lace. With the design chosen I had to decide how to place the pattern piece to look best with the lace and check it would fit in the 8” x 8” hoop. I was struggling to decide so I printed out the design and cut out the pattern piece. I used a low loft fusible fleece for stabiliser as this would compact well for sewing and would be like a padded cup for what is described as a “cleavage enhancing, plunging underwire bra”. I was able to get a cup and side from each square. To ensure none of the stitches unravelled I traced off the pattern pieces and then stitched inside before I cut out.

To cover the stabiliser I lined with the fabric which enabled me to enclose all the seams and still be comfortable. I did have to switch to a bigger needle and use a walking foot but I did get through all the layers and it looks good on the inside as well. For the set I made another Ohhhlulu Claudia but I didn’t have much lace so I opted for a lace overlay on the front panel and used mesh on the fold for the back. This encloses the back seam and gives a smooth profile under clothing.

Now I have the fit right this is another stunning bra and immensely pleased with how it turned out. Through out the makes I have also been working on underwear drafting but I will share this in a separate blog.

A perfect Marlborough Bra to finish the year - Sketching and Shirring Elastic!

Being part of Tailormade’s #TMCollaBRAtory and Emerald Erin’s Bra-a-week Challenge has made me really push myself in terms of design and technique so I wanted something really special for my December project to finish the year off in style. Given the issues with the post, at Christmas, I was lucky my delivery arrived in time.

The kit was a non stretch embroidered tulle lace with peach elastic, powernet, tulle and sheer lining. My first thought was a vertical seam cup like the Orange Lingerie Devonshire but I wanted to bring more of the peach into the cup. After playing with the fabric for a while I decided it was time to try sketching my ideas. Hubby provided his very best colouring pencils and I already had some metallic pencils for the silver. The drawings are only really scribbles but it really did help with the design process.

The outcome was to make an Orange Lingerie Marlborough bra with the inner cup in the lace lined with the peach and the powerbar in tulle gathered using shirring elastic. The underwear was designed to have a lace front panel with the sides being made from the gathered tulle which would stretch. I also sketched out some alternative strap ideas and a garter belt.

The first issue was that the lace only had one scallop edge and could not be mirrored. Normally I would start the second cup with the same pattern as the other side but for this pattern the leaves would be in a different sequence and the way I have placed it is more aesthetically pleasing to me. I lined the upper cups with a piece of sheer lining on the fold and even though this gave a neat edge I still finished with narrow elastic. To get the peach colour to show through the lace I basted a layer of sheer lining to the other pieces and also used a separate layer as lining which allowed me to enclose all the seams.

In the sketches I had envisaged using the lace for the bridge but the gathered tulle for the side frame. Once I had started gathering I realised I wouldn’t have enough tulle for this. The leaves on the scallop edge are only attached along the vein unlike lower down the lace and are quite bulky. To make the bridge I used just the bottom section which has no leaves and the attached leaves from the middle section for the side frame.

Previously I had only used shirring elastic to gather a sleeve into a cuff so this was going to be a real experiment. I hand wound the elastic on to the bobbin and used a stitch length of 4 based on the research I had done. Tulle is difficult to mark so I moved my needle so that I could sew at 1/2” intervals at the foot edge and stitched enough rows to be able to cut out the powerbars before steaming to relax the elastic. I used temporary adhesive spray to tack the sheer lining pieces I had cut to the wrong side. Next I stitched all around the very edge before cutting out. Finally I used another layer of sheer lining to enclose the seam with the inner cup. In my sketch I had used strapping to create a more open back but in practice I finished as normal in order that I would have enough strapping left for the underwear.

With the bra done I moved on to the thong I had sketched. I started with the Orange Lingerie Kingston pattern pieces. This uses stretch mesh on the fold for the leg edge so I thought I would use the folded pattern piece with the width of the elastic added at the fold line.

I cut out the front from the lace and lined with peach stretch mesh before attaching clear elastic to the waist. For the gusset I used just a plain piece of lace so as not to have any bulky embroidery before again lining with the mesh to get the peach colour as well as the cotton jersey lining.

At that point I decided to gather the remaining tulle to see what size piece I would be left to work with.

I cut out the sides in stretch mesh and checked against the gathered tulle. It wasn’t wide enough to cover the whole piece so I came up with the idea of attaching what I had to the stretch mesh starting at the front and then applying strap elastic on top where it ended before cutting back to the strapping so there was no unsightly or bulky finish on the inside. The two pieces were different sizes so I measured the shortest and marked lines to place the strapping.

Next I covered the open back seam with another piece of strap elastic and trimmed back to the stitching. The plan was to use the lace for the back extension but I decided it didn’t have enough stretch so I used the stretch mesh.

I did want to make a garter but I only had rose gold fasteners so I will leave that for another time. To be honest the set was perfect as it was and I need a rest!

Bra-A-Week Challenge - Anyone else keeping up?

I am a big fan of Emerald Erin and her Bra-A-Week challenge has been a great source of inspiration to take my makes to a new level. This ties in nicely with being part of this years #tmcollaBRAtory which I have talked about in previous posts. So I thought I would post a round up of some particularly pleasing recent makes.

First off is my most recent make which uses Erin’s idea for creating stripes by sewing down pleated tulle. I had just received a huge order from Tailor Made which included some beautiful autumnal colours. What I hadn’t realised until it arrived was that the olive tulle was a perfect match with the leaf lace. Then I needed a pattern that would showcase both the lace and the striped tulle.

I couldn’t decide between the Orange Lingerie Marlborough or the Emerald Erin Black Beauty, both of which I have made numerous times as they both fit perfectly. In the end I decided to use the Marlborough as the power bar is part of the cup and I wouldn’t loose the sheerness of the one layer. Also the lace has quite a deep scallop and the upper cup of the Marlborough fitted perfectly.

Creating the stripes was a lengthy process as I wanted to be precise with the pleat. First I had to decide which way to pleat the tulle. This had to be lengthwise as I only had 1/2 yard but full width. Using a chalk marker I drew lines at 1” intervals and then folded from line to line, pinning and then basting. Then I had to choose what thread colour to use. As I didn’t have a green close enough I decided to use the beige contrast so I would need to be super neat! Using knife pleats meant that one side of the fold would be on top and the other side on the reverse. The reverse stitch of my machine is pretty good but I still decided to stitch from the right side. Luckily I have a great edge foot which I set at 1/16th and could sit against the edge of the fold.

The next decision was what to use as lining. Looking through my stash I found some sheer lining which matched the lace and I really liked the two tone effect under the olive tulle. To make sure I cut the pieces exactly mirrored I folded the pleats and pinned in place. Then I had to decide how to place the pattern pieces so I didn’t have any silly edges and it would look right in a seam allowance. I also chose to use the tulle for the frame rather than a lace band. I finished the bra as normal and moved on to matching underwear.

I had to scratch my head a little to decide how to bring both the tulle and lace into underwear. Both have some give in one direction so I wanted a pattern that could use this. Looking through my patterns I thought I would try an Ohhhlulu Grace and use the lace scallop lengthwise for the side panels. I didn’t have enough tulle to pleat the back and only partially for the front but was enough to look fine.

I used two layers of the lace for each side panel using the full width. I used chalk to mark the seam allowance on the tulle and a red Frixon pen for the lace. I placed the lace over the tulle lining up the seams allowances. Then I stitched around the scallop and through the seam allowance and cut back to the stitching. Finally I used fold over elastic for the waist with soft lingerie elastic for the leg.

Although I had made a size bigger than normal to make up for the lack of stretch they are a little snug so I decided to make the Orange Lingerie Montgomery using the lace and some matching super soft and stretchy mesh as an alternate.

I was so pleased with the result. It’s hard to go wrong with such fabulous supplies and patterns I know fit well which brings me smoothly on to my October make for #TMCollaBRAtory. I had a gorgeous embroidered tulle lace bra kit and wanted to bring out the beautiful colours. The kit came with black tulle but it was little dark to bring out the delicate blue and purple flowers so out came the stash and I decided on what was called mauve on the EvielaLuve website. Then the usual dilemma of what pattern to use to showcase the gorgeous lace. Again a search through my patterns brought me to the Orange Lingerie Boylston. it has a deep upper cup and wide straps.

My first step was to take off the seam allowance of the upper cup and straighten the line. I then used tulle on the fold for the upper cup edge and then placed the lace over the tulle angling down from the top outer edge to the centre front seam allowance. For the lower cup pieces I basted a layer of tulle to each piece and treated as one. Then I used another layer of tulle for a lining so I could enclose the upper cup. The lace can’t be mirrored so it is a case of finding a balance for bridge and side frame. Again I basted one layer of tulle to each piece and then lined with tulle so I could enclose the seams and the front of the bra would have the same level of sheerness.

I wasn’t sure how I would make the straps but as this was a kit for a bra I thought i would cut out the front panel for a Montgomery brief and see what I was left with. I started with the straps in the tulle. There wasn’t enough lace to cover completely so I cut into two pieces and placed at an angle ensuring the low point of the scallop would hit the 3/8” line where the elastic would be sewn. For a flat and neat finish I slipped the strap in between the tulle and lace of the upper cup.

Both sets I could just sit and look at. Although I seem to enjoy deciding as I go along there is often a trigger that sends me in a particular direction!

Bra-A-Week Challenge - Emerald Erin Black Beauty and Orange Lingerie Devonshire

Confined to the house with a lot of time on my hands and inspired by Emerald Erin I am trying to up my game and play around with patterns for some different looks. So I am proud to present an Emerald Erin Black Beauty with neon stretch lace and Orange Lingerie Devonshire with half cups.

The neon lace from Tailor Made for this week is a stark contrast to the pale lilac of the previous week but the sun was out when I started and just said “please use me”. I had wanted to make a bra with a sheer edge cup and thought the Black Beauty (although it requires stable fabric) would be a good place to start as I could use a mixture of the two versions and tweak for the stretch lace. The first decision was to choose the tulle. I came across the pistachio I had left from a previous Black Beauty and I thought it would look perfect as it picked up the small amount of green in the neon.

I used two layers of folded tulle for each cup. To make sure the tulle folded flat I folded the smooth side over the less smooth side and then they stuck together. I placed the lace over the upper cup piece and cut in place that way up. Using a layer of lace and tulle I encased the upper cup.

I decided to use the lace edge on the power bar so, again, I placed over the pattern piece to get the low point of the scallop in the right place. Then I cut the tulle from this piece. This then influenced which colour elastic to use as the yellow looked better underneath than the pink. With the cups done I moved on to deciding how to make the cradle and bands.

Deciding on the mint fastener I first had to adjust the back band to accommodate the extra height. I decided to use the lace for the back bands together with a layer of soft powernet. Rather than use the lace all over I decided to bring in some more tulle and used this on the bridge. For stability I used two layers as one with sheer cup lining for stability. Again the yellow elastic looked better under the tulle. The beige channeling was chosen as this was the least obtrusive. To keep the front edge clean I closed off, sewing through the channeling and seam allowance only and then hand stitched to the front .

I thought the perfect partner would be the Studio Costura Vera Panties utilising the mint strapping. As the lace does not mirror I redrafted the back piece so I could use elastic and have the scallop edge on the waist. I took off the back seam and added the width of the elastic to the leg on the back pattern piece. I only had four gold sliders and no rings so I also had to adjust how I fit the straps. I used sliders for the front and tucked them in on the second pass of the elastic giving a really clean finish.

For the back I attached wrong side to wrong side and then folded back to stitch in place for another clean finish. Another fabulous combination but still hoping enough for another panty.

Not much left but I managed to squeeze out an Evie la Luve Chloe thong. I must admit to not being a big thong fan but with enough depth to the sides this makes for a pretty comfortable fit. I cut out the mesh first and then fitted what I had left over the front with just enough for the back as well. The mint fold over elastic was perfect.

I just love this set and very different to the set of the previous week.

I had been waiting for the right design to come along for this very beautiful lilac tulle from Tailor Made and as with most of my makes someone releases a new pattern or hack that ticks all the boxes. Orange Lingerie posted a tutorial on how to turn the 3/4 Devonshire into a half cup and my mind was set. The adjustments are quite simple, however, I did make up a paper cup to check there was adequate coverage. Then on to choosing what colours to use with it. So out came white and various shades of pink and lilac.

I made choices as I went along as one affected another. First I decided on a very soft pink tulle which gave a pink hue and I preferred the more pink/lilac elastic over the pure lilac. Then I had some very pale lilac shimmery powernet which looks amazing but it is not showing up well in the pictures. I tried to break up the all over look of the lace by positioning the flower on the side of the frames only. The placing of the cup pieces on the lace is problematic as the lace cannot be mirrored but I think I achieved a good balance. Although I do have a pattern to make a fastener I did a quick makeover of a white fastener. I covered the front of the eye side only so the plush back was still against my skin and covered both sides of the hook side.

Then on to the very glamorous straps which was my attempt to achieve a RTW look I had seen. I used a strip of the lace tulle with one of the lining tulle for colour consistency. The front strap is fabric for this pattern so I ensured the strips were cut with no stretch in the length and used 1/4 seams on both long edges and turned right side out. I still wanted the comfort of plush elastic so I place over a piece of strap elastic and sewed down the middle. Then I marked a line every two inches and stitched across so I could gather to the width of the elastic. Well impressed with the look and still comfortable!

The obvious choice for underwear was another Orange Lingerie pattern, the Montgomery Brief as you can use non stretch fabric for the front panel. I’ve made this numerous times but I think this has to be the prettiest and so comfortable with the super soft mesh I found in my stash. With just a small amount of lace tulle left I managed to use this for an overlay on the Evie la Luve Binky, another favourite of mine using the direction of the stretch across the body. I used the white fold over elastic as I didn’t want it to overwhelm the single layer mesh. Amazingly pretty and feminine as well as comfortable. What more can you ask for when we are all spending so much time in t-shirts and joggers!