Bra-A-Week Challenge - Anyone else keeping up?

I am a big fan of Emerald Erin and her Bra-A-Week challenge has been a great source of inspiration to take my makes to a new level. This ties in nicely with being part of this years #tmcollaBRAtory which I have talked about in previous posts. So I thought I would post a round up of some particularly pleasing recent makes.

First off is my most recent make which uses Erin’s idea for creating stripes by sewing down pleated tulle. I had just received a huge order from Tailor Made which included some beautiful autumnal colours. What I hadn’t realised until it arrived was that the olive tulle was a perfect match with the leaf lace. Then I needed a pattern that would showcase both the lace and the striped tulle.

I couldn’t decide between the Orange Lingerie Marlborough or the Emerald Erin Black Beauty, both of which I have made numerous times as they both fit perfectly. In the end I decided to use the Marlborough as the power bar is part of the cup and I wouldn’t loose the sheerness of the one layer. Also the lace has quite a deep scallop and the upper cup of the Marlborough fitted perfectly.

Creating the stripes was a lengthy process as I wanted to be precise with the pleat. First I had to decide which way to pleat the tulle. This had to be lengthwise as I only had 1/2 yard but full width. Using a chalk marker I drew lines at 1” intervals and then folded from line to line, pinning and then basting. Then I had to choose what thread colour to use. As I didn’t have a green close enough I decided to use the beige contrast so I would need to be super neat! Using knife pleats meant that one side of the fold would be on top and the other side on the reverse. The reverse stitch of my machine is pretty good but I still decided to stitch from the right side. Luckily I have a great edge foot which I set at 1/16th and could sit against the edge of the fold.

The next decision was what to use as lining. Looking through my stash I found some sheer lining which matched the lace and I really liked the two tone effect under the olive tulle. To make sure I cut the pieces exactly mirrored I folded the pleats and pinned in place. Then I had to decide how to place the pattern pieces so I didn’t have any silly edges and it would look right in a seam allowance. I also chose to use the tulle for the frame rather than a lace band. I finished the bra as normal and moved on to matching underwear.

I had to scratch my head a little to decide how to bring both the tulle and lace into underwear. Both have some give in one direction so I wanted a pattern that could use this. Looking through my patterns I thought I would try an Ohhhlulu Grace and use the lace scallop lengthwise for the side panels. I didn’t have enough tulle to pleat the back and only partially for the front but was enough to look fine.

I used two layers of the lace for each side panel using the full width. I used chalk to mark the seam allowance on the tulle and a red Frixon pen for the lace. I placed the lace over the tulle lining up the seams allowances. Then I stitched around the scallop and through the seam allowance and cut back to the stitching. Finally I used fold over elastic for the waist with soft lingerie elastic for the leg.

Although I had made a size bigger than normal to make up for the lack of stretch they are a little snug so I decided to make the Orange Lingerie Montgomery using the lace and some matching super soft and stretchy mesh as an alternate.

I was so pleased with the result. It’s hard to go wrong with such fabulous supplies and patterns I know fit well which brings me smoothly on to my October make for #TMCollaBRAtory. I had a gorgeous embroidered tulle lace bra kit and wanted to bring out the beautiful colours. The kit came with black tulle but it was little dark to bring out the delicate blue and purple flowers so out came the stash and I decided on what was called mauve on the EvielaLuve website. Then the usual dilemma of what pattern to use to showcase the gorgeous lace. Again a search through my patterns brought me to the Orange Lingerie Boylston. it has a deep upper cup and wide straps.

My first step was to take off the seam allowance of the upper cup and straighten the line. I then used tulle on the fold for the upper cup edge and then placed the lace over the tulle angling down from the top outer edge to the centre front seam allowance. For the lower cup pieces I basted a layer of tulle to each piece and treated as one. Then I used another layer of tulle for a lining so I could enclose the upper cup. The lace can’t be mirrored so it is a case of finding a balance for bridge and side frame. Again I basted one layer of tulle to each piece and then lined with tulle so I could enclose the seams and the front of the bra would have the same level of sheerness.

I wasn’t sure how I would make the straps but as this was a kit for a bra I thought i would cut out the front panel for a Montgomery brief and see what I was left with. I started with the straps in the tulle. There wasn’t enough lace to cover completely so I cut into two pieces and placed at an angle ensuring the low point of the scallop would hit the 3/8” line where the elastic would be sewn. For a flat and neat finish I slipped the strap in between the tulle and lace of the upper cup.

Both sets I could just sit and look at. Although I seem to enjoy deciding as I go along there is often a trigger that sends me in a particular direction!