Sheer Black Set With Attitude

I’ve been doing so much testing I decided it was time to give myself a new challenge and keep myself occupied until our next trip in the motorhome. Some interesting rtw designs popped up on my feed that I really liked the look of so I decided to have a go at replicating the look and feel of one particular set.

So here is my finished set. Read on if you want to see how I achieved this.

I started with the bra and it was quite a long process to come up with the pattern pieces so I’ve put this initial part in the following short video.

Bra design from sketch to pattern pieces including test make.

Using the drafted pattern pieces together with the adjusted pieces from the Orange Lingerie Boylston I made up all the separate elements. As with the test I used two layers of sheer cup lining for the cup and frame and a single layer for the straps. To achieve the desired sleek look I used a matt fold over elastic from Bratastic Fabrics. I was then ready to put together the cups.

The quarter foam cup was perfect but the middle section just didn’t sit right. The problem was that the black foam had far more stretch than the beige I had used in the test. The middle picture shows the piece cut with the stretch horizontally on the bottom. The straighter piece is cut with the stretch in the opposite direction but applying the fold over elastic in the same direction top and bottom, so as not to distort, but I didn’t keep enough tension. To correct this I had to undo the bottom fold over elastic and apply as I normally would.

With the middle piece now correct I could attach the long strap piece, to which I had already applied the fold over elastic, to the inside edge. I then inserted the cups into the frame and attached the back bands. Unlike my test make I straightened off the bridge but once I was in a position to try on the strap elastic I had used for bottom did not have enough stretch to be comfortable so I separated the elastic from the bridge and raised as far as I could to its original shape.

Having used soft fabrics rather than strap elastic for the front strapping detail I managed to achieve the desired look and the result was incredibly comfortable. So onto the rest of the set. The rtw design was a harness suspender with some very strappy underwear which I thought looked cluttered with all the straps on the bra so my idea was to attach the suspender to the bra with a g hook at the centre front and to the back fastener. For the underwear I thought of The Lingerie Formula Forget-Me-Not Cheeky Cut Panty which I had made before and had fabric straps like the bra. The challenge was how to make this!

I hadn’t made suspenders before and the pattern I already had but not used sat higher up on the waist than I wanted. I thought of the Evle la Luve Jamie Bodysuit which had exactly the shape I wanted for the suspenders, although I needed to add the centre front bodice shape taken from the waist to the bridge to the bottom piece. Next I needed to shape from the hip at the sides and arch to sit above the upper edge of the underwear and then remove the straps from the side and make the back come around to the front straps.

I decided to make the underwear first so I could finalise the shape for the suspender. I made two adjustments to the pattern pieces as I thought the enclosed gusset seam would not look good on the plain black fabric from BWear I was using. I joined the two pieces together eliminating the front seam but leaving the gusset enclosed at the back. Next I had to decide how much to add to the back piece to bring it around to the front with the width being determined by the two strap pieces that would be attached.

With the front and back made up I had to decide how to attach the back to the front enclosing the straps . I used some wide fold over elastic and enclosed the back seam leaving tails either end. I then placed the straps behind and folded over the ends to join at the back. This worked beautifully and was a perfect match for the bra so on to the final element. This was going to be more of a challenge as for me at least it was more of an experiment.

I tried on the bodysuit over the bra and underwear and measured from the waist elastic to the bottom of the bridge. Using an erasable marker I drew roughly where I wanted the shaping for the suspenders and then I transferred the markings to the original pattern and traced off the sections I wanted. After making up the waist elastic using the original instructions I made a quick test version using some scraps of lace fabric. The top piece was fine but I need to scoop more out of the arch to sit above the underwear.

Once I had the front pattern piece finalised I played around with the placement of the panel pieces and when I was happy with the placement I traced off adding seam allowances. To give some support I used two layers of mesh basted together. Rather than have lots of unsightly seams I added the fabric pieces on top of the mesh, marked the seam allowances, folded under and basted. I placed the pattern piece underneath so I could see where to place the pieces and basted in place and used my edge foot so I could sew right to the edge of the fold.

As the fabric is very fine I decided to use strap elastic for the final panels as this would cover the horizontal pieces better. Then I attached fold over elastic all over. To attach to the bra I used twill tape to create a tab under the bridge that would not be seen or affect the use as a bra on its own. I attached a g hook to the top and narrowed the very top down so it lay flat over the g hook. At this point I could try it on and decide how long to make the straps.

All the hard work paid off and it looks stunning on. I’m still busy testing for some great designers as well as working on my classes for the Bra Bee. So I have a lot to fit in between trips out in the motorhome but I do want to spend some time making clothes as I’m hoping to start wearing dresses and skirts again.

Bra-A-Week Challenge - Anyone else keeping up?

I am a big fan of Emerald Erin and her Bra-A-Week challenge has been a great source of inspiration to take my makes to a new level. This ties in nicely with being part of this years #tmcollaBRAtory which I have talked about in previous posts. So I thought I would post a round up of some particularly pleasing recent makes.

First off is my most recent make which uses Erin’s idea for creating stripes by sewing down pleated tulle. I had just received a huge order from Tailor Made which included some beautiful autumnal colours. What I hadn’t realised until it arrived was that the olive tulle was a perfect match with the leaf lace. Then I needed a pattern that would showcase both the lace and the striped tulle.

I couldn’t decide between the Orange Lingerie Marlborough or the Emerald Erin Black Beauty, both of which I have made numerous times as they both fit perfectly. In the end I decided to use the Marlborough as the power bar is part of the cup and I wouldn’t loose the sheerness of the one layer. Also the lace has quite a deep scallop and the upper cup of the Marlborough fitted perfectly.

Creating the stripes was a lengthy process as I wanted to be precise with the pleat. First I had to decide which way to pleat the tulle. This had to be lengthwise as I only had 1/2 yard but full width. Using a chalk marker I drew lines at 1” intervals and then folded from line to line, pinning and then basting. Then I had to choose what thread colour to use. As I didn’t have a green close enough I decided to use the beige contrast so I would need to be super neat! Using knife pleats meant that one side of the fold would be on top and the other side on the reverse. The reverse stitch of my machine is pretty good but I still decided to stitch from the right side. Luckily I have a great edge foot which I set at 1/16th and could sit against the edge of the fold.

The next decision was what to use as lining. Looking through my stash I found some sheer lining which matched the lace and I really liked the two tone effect under the olive tulle. To make sure I cut the pieces exactly mirrored I folded the pleats and pinned in place. Then I had to decide how to place the pattern pieces so I didn’t have any silly edges and it would look right in a seam allowance. I also chose to use the tulle for the frame rather than a lace band. I finished the bra as normal and moved on to matching underwear.

I had to scratch my head a little to decide how to bring both the tulle and lace into underwear. Both have some give in one direction so I wanted a pattern that could use this. Looking through my patterns I thought I would try an Ohhhlulu Grace and use the lace scallop lengthwise for the side panels. I didn’t have enough tulle to pleat the back and only partially for the front but was enough to look fine.

I used two layers of the lace for each side panel using the full width. I used chalk to mark the seam allowance on the tulle and a red Frixon pen for the lace. I placed the lace over the tulle lining up the seams allowances. Then I stitched around the scallop and through the seam allowance and cut back to the stitching. Finally I used fold over elastic for the waist with soft lingerie elastic for the leg.

Although I had made a size bigger than normal to make up for the lack of stretch they are a little snug so I decided to make the Orange Lingerie Montgomery using the lace and some matching super soft and stretchy mesh as an alternate.

I was so pleased with the result. It’s hard to go wrong with such fabulous supplies and patterns I know fit well which brings me smoothly on to my October make for #TMCollaBRAtory. I had a gorgeous embroidered tulle lace bra kit and wanted to bring out the beautiful colours. The kit came with black tulle but it was little dark to bring out the delicate blue and purple flowers so out came the stash and I decided on what was called mauve on the EvielaLuve website. Then the usual dilemma of what pattern to use to showcase the gorgeous lace. Again a search through my patterns brought me to the Orange Lingerie Boylston. it has a deep upper cup and wide straps.

My first step was to take off the seam allowance of the upper cup and straighten the line. I then used tulle on the fold for the upper cup edge and then placed the lace over the tulle angling down from the top outer edge to the centre front seam allowance. For the lower cup pieces I basted a layer of tulle to each piece and treated as one. Then I used another layer of tulle for a lining so I could enclose the upper cup. The lace can’t be mirrored so it is a case of finding a balance for bridge and side frame. Again I basted one layer of tulle to each piece and then lined with tulle so I could enclose the seams and the front of the bra would have the same level of sheerness.

I wasn’t sure how I would make the straps but as this was a kit for a bra I thought i would cut out the front panel for a Montgomery brief and see what I was left with. I started with the straps in the tulle. There wasn’t enough lace to cover completely so I cut into two pieces and placed at an angle ensuring the low point of the scallop would hit the 3/8” line where the elastic would be sewn. For a flat and neat finish I slipped the strap in between the tulle and lace of the upper cup.

Both sets I could just sit and look at. Although I seem to enjoy deciding as I go along there is often a trigger that sends me in a particular direction!