More of my favorites - Including my most perfect Black Beauty!

Trying to keep myself busy I have had quite a frantic few weeks of sewing from bras to face masks and some exciting pattern testing I hope to be able to share soon. I’ve been sewing up the various shape face masks for those of my family and friends who will be venturing out in the coming weeks, although hubby and I are still shielding. So I thought it time to share some of my experimental makes which have gone so well.

The inspiration for this make came from an IG post by Karu, StudioCostura which she followed with a tutorial on her blog for the cross over fold. Putting together the fabrics was the hardest challenge with limited number of shops open in the UK or not shipping internationally. Luckily EvielaLuve opened for orders last weekend and I ordered all the tulle colours stocked. However, I need stretch fabric for the underwear and the right colour powernet for the bands. The only colour I could use was the pink as I had some stretch tulle from Small Bobbins.

First I had to make a darted cup. I explored drafting my own pattern which could be the subject of another blog completely! But, feeling very frustrated, I went back to adapting a pattern I already had. I had used a fold over upper cup on my previous Emerald Erin Black Beauty and thought at least I am starting with a perfect fit. Then I found a video by Liz Sews on making it in to a darted cup. Pattern piece adapted I had to decide how to achieve the folded cup with a dart. So I cut on the fold, opened up and sewed each dart and folded back over, stitching through both darts to keep in place.

Next I had to decide whether to use the powerbar or not. For the size I was making I thought it would need it but I didn’t want to spoil the look. Instead of using elastic I folded the tulle and placed the pattern piece so it started and ended at the right place as this is a curved edge. Then on to the bridge and side frame. I used two layers of tulle with light pink sheer lining for added support. For the bands I used two layers of the stretch tulle both for support and so I could enclose all the seams. It looks so perfect inside and out.

Following the tutorial I made the new pattern piece to be cut on the fold for the front. Checking I had enough tulle I also adapted the back to have the fold in the same place. This does use quite a lot of fabric but worth it for the sheer look. It was all so perfect until I realised I didn’t have any lingerie elastic for the legs. I tried on to check the fit and decided to overlock the edge and used this to fold over. Perfect!

I’ve got another set I would like to share. Norma, Orange Lingerie has also been posting some pattern ideas and I really liked the look of her pin tuck bra cup. And as with everything I decided to take it to the next step. It also involved a new pattern as I had not made a Boylston in my size.

So I also added pin tucks to the frame and did the same for the Montgomery brief which I have made many times. I also added tulle to the upper cup which matched the brief. The dress fabric I was using was fraying so I lined the cup with duoplex.

For the cup I adapted the pattern piece but for the frame I just drew where I wanted tucks, sewed them and then cut around the pattern piece. Other than lining the cups and frame I finished as normal. The dress fabric I was using didn’t have any stretch so I drew a line on the bias and placed the waist of the pattern piece on this line. I traced around to where I wanted my first pin tuck. I made the tucks and then cut out the pattern piece. It worked out so well. Found the right colour red lingerie supplies at SewWardrobe.

Without making this too long I thought I would also share the latest pattern from Studio Costura as I was fortunate enough to be asked to test. The Eva really is a versatile pattern that is so comfortable. I’m not a high waisted fan but these are just perfect. I started with the basic design to test the fit. The only change I made was to contour the waist more to accommodate my shape. The nylon tricot I had from BWear was perfect. When it fitted so well I thought I would try the no elastic version which is made with stretch satin, also from BWear and some micromesh from Emerald Erin. Again amazing.

So I thought I just had to try the lace version with the stretch satin I had a kit from Sewme which I was waiting to use and I thought this would be perfect. It was so perfect I decided to make another Mara . I added the lace to the back to match and added plastic boning to the sides for support. I love this pattern, which is actually a bralette, but uses channeling so all the seams are enclosed. Then with the lace left I squeezed out a Stella panty, another of my favourites, for a perfect set.

Lingerie sewing is so therapeutic!!