Jackie - The Fabulous New Zipper Front Sports Bra From Porcelynne

It’s been a while since I posted but I’ve got quite a few new patterns to share with you. As this has just been released I thought I would start with the Jackie, the new sports bra pattern, from Porcelynne. When the call went out I was eager to test this pattern for a number of reasons. The main reason was the zipper front as I’m having physio on my shoulder and using a back fastener is incredibly painful. I love the strap detail as well as the clean inside, no seams to rub or chaff. It also turns out it is interchangeable with all of Jennifer’s other sports bras as well as the Tankini Add On. So let’s see how I got on.

Starting with the pattern, as expected the size range is phenomenal. Jennifer had posted some pictures on the Porcelynne Facebook of makes with larger cups and the shape looked great so I was interested to see how this would look on me at the smaller end of the scale.

There are three pieces to the cup as well as a shaped back. The zipper has a top and bottom tab built into a hook and eye which you can fasten first to make pulling the zip up easier for the bigger cups. I chose the zipper shield option as I thought the fastener would not be necessary for my size.

Moving on to the sizing. The pattern describes the fit as “more relaxed for low impact sports or daily wear”. My measurements put me in a 32D. As I wanted more compression I went down a band and cup size as suggested in the instructions. There are a lot of pieces so I have uploaded a short video of the pieces and the materials I have used. Tailormade still has the grey fabric in stock but the Orange Soda Space Dye Poly Lycra Knit is no longer available from Fabric Fairy but they have a huge range of similar products.

As there is a Facebook Sew Along Group I am not going to go into a lot of detail about the construction. I started with the straps. For my sports version I used foam for both comfort and to stabilise the inner strap. This does make them quite bulky but my machine didn’t have a problem. My comment here would to make sure you use the correct width pattern piece for your elastic and findings and adjust the front strap placement on the side front to match.

I only had a really long zipper to use but it is relatively simple to cut it down to size. I didn’t have any silver end stops left so I used a crimp bead cover from my jewellery making stash. The instructions have you leave an extra 3/4” but I found this a little short and only just fit into the band. Next time I think I will leave cutting until the shield is in place. Also remember to make sure you have the pull in the section you are using before you cut off the excess.

I would definitely recommend reading through the instructions as well as watching the Sew Along before construction as the steps to enclose all the seams are not straightforward. So in the end you are pulling the whole garment through the shield side of the zipper and then you topstitch through the main fabric, zipper and shield to close the gap. This is a lot of bulk to sew through and I changed to my walking foot and size 16 needle.

The fabric and fit are fabulous for a sports bra. I love the clean inside and it is so comfortable. I just love it when a test make goes so well and why I like to use appropriate fabrics for every make. This pattern is particular good for scraps of fabric and the grey is what I had left from making the Greenstyle Inspire Tights Moto Add On. I put the bra through a workout and I am pretty impressed with the support from the compression without being squashed flat. Personally, there is too much bounce for a long run but pretty good for everything else.

As the pattern is interchangeable with the other sports bra patterns I thought it would be good to combine with the Laurel as I loved the hook and eye details with a heart cut out and the criss-cross front band.

For this make I decided to go with a comfortable day bra. I kept the band size the same as I like a snug fit but went up a cup size for less compression. I’ve uploaded another short video for the pattern pieces and materials used. This was before I realised I had gone a step too far without reading the instructions for the Laurel.

I’ll come to the seam ripper moment later but first I thought I would share the links to the fabrics I used. The main fabric is from BWear and comes in a number of colours but the one I have used is Lavender. The white athletic mesh is no longer available but Tailormade still have the black. Again the heart mesh is no longer available but Madalynne always has some fabulous and unusual fabric to add to your stash.

Moving on to the construction, I started with the criss-cross pieces. It was a little fiddly to get the pieces in place as you have multiple layers of fabric and elastic. I tried to machine baste in place but the fabric is very slippery so I did this by hand several times so I could place before attaching to the front.

I didn’t have much room to adjust the straps for the first make so for this one I added some length to the side front. I redrew the sides so that I had a straight tab for folding over the slider as I found the shape a little bulky on the first make. I also stabilised both the main and lining fabric at this point to stop them stretching out.

So it wasn’t until after the video when I was trying to work out how to keep the seams enclosed that I realized I couldn’t construct the Laurel in the same way as the Jackie. For the Laurel I needed to sew the back neckline and heart cut out, attach elastic and then turn through to finish. Seam ripping lightning stitches is not fun but I had to undo the four side seams. Also, the heart cut out is not as neat as I would like as I used 3/8” clear elastic and when I watched the videos on the website it said to use 1/4”. I think this is a bigger issue with the smaller sizes as there is very little distance between the neckline and where the scallops of the heart meet.

Combining the two patterns worked out brilliantly although I did have to think through the construction to put the two together. The only difference is that the band seam is not enclosed.

Despite the hiccups along the way it turned out pretty well. In conclusion the sizing is spot on and the shaping is beautiful. This is a fabulous day bra and will be perfect for long walks and cycling and trips out in the motorhome.

If you are interested you can buy the Jackie at half price until the 26th November and, in addition, on Black Friday itself (the 26th November) there is a 25% discount on all Porcelynne patterns. For my test makes I have used scraps of fabric but Jennifer has put together some kits specifically for the Jackie as well as having some sports bra knit fabric by the yard in some lovely colours. BWear has also put together some kits that are suitable for the Jackie (both the Jackie and Emily kit).

Back with a new blog soon.

Pattern Drafting, Sketches and New Year's Resolutions

It’s been a while since I last posted but I’ve had a manic few weeks of doing so many new things so I thought it was time to take a break and journal all the makes. My New Year’s Resolutions were to take time to practice sketching designs, further develop skills to take designs to patterns and explore different approaches to drafting. So here is what I have achieved so far.

The year got off to a good start as Porcelynne had a week long Draft Along which was live drafting using the method in Jennifer’s book Bare Essentials. This was drafting from measurements to create a fitting pattern that could then be turned into a sloper to create any design. Alternatively you can use your fitted Eve cup, or any other well fitting pattern, to create the sloper, which I had already done, but was interested to see how the two would compare.

What I took away from the week was a better understanding of how to manipulate patterns I already had and this set is my first attempt to take an idea through to a finished make.

Although this method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for bra drafting, for most of us, the first draft is a starting point. My initial draft had a similar shape to my Eve but needed some work to get a good fit. I had my Tailormade TMCollaBRAtory January kit to use and an idea for the design so I thought I could make a sloper from my perfect fitting Emerald Erin Black Beauty. The first step was to integrate the strap part of the power bar into the upper cup.

I wanted to create a diagonal seam through the apex which would create a super powerbar side with a curved lace upper cup. To help decide where to place the seam I used a technique I had seen in Beverly Johnson’s Bra-makers Manual where you make up a cup in foam and draw the style lines and cut up. Using the Bare Essentials method I then had to put the curves back on. I made up a test cup to check the fit both in terms of cup size and that it fit into the frame. So I was ready to use the beautiful lingerie satin kit.

Before I decided where to use the lace on the bra I cut out the lace back for the Ohhhlulu Claudia which is a great pattern where you can use the non stretch fabric of your bra on the small front panel. I often size up with the Claudia depending on the stretch of my lace and whether the front panel has any stretch at all.

The next set came about because I had run out of regular wires and thought why not try drafting for the short/demi/plunge wires I did have and use the kit for my February TMCollaBRAtory. I sketched a few ideas for front closing, partial bands with strappy backs but then realised I needed to get the basics right first.

The band draft was straight forward but I was struggling with the cups so I decided to look through the many patterns I have and see if I could use them. The idea was a lace cup with a separate foam lower cup with a push up effect.

I first came up with using the Madalynne X Simplicity 8436 which is a partial band for stretch lace which I had made a while ago. So I adjusted the cups to fit my full band draft. Then I needed a foam lower cup piece. The answer was the Porcelynne Ariel cup which is a three piece cup for a lovely round shape. So I made up the full cup in foam and inserted into the band with the lace over and as before drew on the style I wanted. This took off most of the upper cup so I adjusted the middle piece to incorporate the bits of the upper cup I needed.

I made up the other cup from my new pattern pieces, lined the lace cup, attached elastic to the neckline and finished the rest of the bra. From this I narrowed the bridge, created a gothic arch and narrowed the band as far as I could so it would appear to be a partial band. For that push up look I also tried making some cookies from Beverly Johnson’s class but the fit was so good I don’t think they are needed.

With all the pattern pieces adjusted I moved onto the beautiful lace kit for my February TMCollaBRAtory project. As I used the lace for the back band as well as the full lace cups I only had a small piece left to make a set. I instantly thought of the EvielaLuve Chloe thong which I had adapted for a comfier fit! I checked how much of the pattern piece I could cover before I cut out the front piece in mesh. I placed the lace over the mesh so that the scallop would sit below the fold over elastic and cut around. This left a tiny piece to partial cover the back. The fit and look of this set is sensational and I have plans to make it again very soon.

Moving on to my latest make which could be a blog post on its own but I think I will include it here. It wasn’t what I planned to make next but this mustard and black kit from Diane’s Bratastic Fabrics had such great Art Deco vibes that I decided to run with it.

I had already bought some Sashiko inspired embroidery designs from Designs by Juju that I wanted to try out on lingerie satin so the idea was to try a find a design that would work with the lace. A posting on FB reminded me of the Orange Lingerie Lansdowne which I intended to revisit to get a good fit but more importantly the large lower cup would be perfect.

I started by altering the pattern to fit which meant taking a wedge out of the underarm and altering the back band. Then I stitched out a few of the designs to see which worked best with the lace. With the design chosen I had to decide how to place the pattern piece to look best with the lace and check it would fit in the 8” x 8” hoop. I was struggling to decide so I printed out the design and cut out the pattern piece. I used a low loft fusible fleece for stabiliser as this would compact well for sewing and would be like a padded cup for what is described as a “cleavage enhancing, plunging underwire bra”. I was able to get a cup and side from each square. To ensure none of the stitches unravelled I traced off the pattern pieces and then stitched inside before I cut out.

To cover the stabiliser I lined with the fabric which enabled me to enclose all the seams and still be comfortable. I did have to switch to a bigger needle and use a walking foot but I did get through all the layers and it looks good on the inside as well. For the set I made another Ohhhlulu Claudia but I didn’t have much lace so I opted for a lace overlay on the front panel and used mesh on the fold for the back. This encloses the back seam and gives a smooth profile under clothing.

Now I have the fit right this is another stunning bra and immensely pleased with how it turned out. Through out the makes I have also been working on underwear drafting but I will share this in a separate blog.

A perfect Marlborough Bra to finish the year - Sketching and Shirring Elastic!

Being part of Tailormade’s #TMCollaBRAtory and Emerald Erin’s Bra-a-week Challenge has made me really push myself in terms of design and technique so I wanted something really special for my December project to finish the year off in style. Given the issues with the post, at Christmas, I was lucky my delivery arrived in time.

The kit was a non stretch embroidered tulle lace with peach elastic, powernet, tulle and sheer lining. My first thought was a vertical seam cup like the Orange Lingerie Devonshire but I wanted to bring more of the peach into the cup. After playing with the fabric for a while I decided it was time to try sketching my ideas. Hubby provided his very best colouring pencils and I already had some metallic pencils for the silver. The drawings are only really scribbles but it really did help with the design process.

The outcome was to make an Orange Lingerie Marlborough bra with the inner cup in the lace lined with the peach and the powerbar in tulle gathered using shirring elastic. The underwear was designed to have a lace front panel with the sides being made from the gathered tulle which would stretch. I also sketched out some alternative strap ideas and a garter belt.

The first issue was that the lace only had one scallop edge and could not be mirrored. Normally I would start the second cup with the same pattern as the other side but for this pattern the leaves would be in a different sequence and the way I have placed it is more aesthetically pleasing to me. I lined the upper cups with a piece of sheer lining on the fold and even though this gave a neat edge I still finished with narrow elastic. To get the peach colour to show through the lace I basted a layer of sheer lining to the other pieces and also used a separate layer as lining which allowed me to enclose all the seams.

In the sketches I had envisaged using the lace for the bridge but the gathered tulle for the side frame. Once I had started gathering I realised I wouldn’t have enough tulle for this. The leaves on the scallop edge are only attached along the vein unlike lower down the lace and are quite bulky. To make the bridge I used just the bottom section which has no leaves and the attached leaves from the middle section for the side frame.

Previously I had only used shirring elastic to gather a sleeve into a cuff so this was going to be a real experiment. I hand wound the elastic on to the bobbin and used a stitch length of 4 based on the research I had done. Tulle is difficult to mark so I moved my needle so that I could sew at 1/2” intervals at the foot edge and stitched enough rows to be able to cut out the powerbars before steaming to relax the elastic. I used temporary adhesive spray to tack the sheer lining pieces I had cut to the wrong side. Next I stitched all around the very edge before cutting out. Finally I used another layer of sheer lining to enclose the seam with the inner cup. In my sketch I had used strapping to create a more open back but in practice I finished as normal in order that I would have enough strapping left for the underwear.

With the bra done I moved on to the thong I had sketched. I started with the Orange Lingerie Kingston pattern pieces. This uses stretch mesh on the fold for the leg edge so I thought I would use the folded pattern piece with the width of the elastic added at the fold line.

I cut out the front from the lace and lined with peach stretch mesh before attaching clear elastic to the waist. For the gusset I used just a plain piece of lace so as not to have any bulky embroidery before again lining with the mesh to get the peach colour as well as the cotton jersey lining.

At that point I decided to gather the remaining tulle to see what size piece I would be left to work with.

I cut out the sides in stretch mesh and checked against the gathered tulle. It wasn’t wide enough to cover the whole piece so I came up with the idea of attaching what I had to the stretch mesh starting at the front and then applying strap elastic on top where it ended before cutting back to the strapping so there was no unsightly or bulky finish on the inside. The two pieces were different sizes so I measured the shortest and marked lines to place the strapping.

Next I covered the open back seam with another piece of strap elastic and trimmed back to the stitching. The plan was to use the lace for the back extension but I decided it didn’t have enough stretch so I used the stretch mesh.

I did want to make a garter but I only had rose gold fasteners so I will leave that for another time. To be honest the set was perfect as it was and I need a rest!

Pattern hack perfection - Madalynne Lawren Bodysuit with Cloth Habit Watson Bra

Still going with the Bra-A-Week Challenge I thought I would try something different with the very beautiful lace bralette kit I had from Tailor Made for my November #TMCollaBRAtory. Ying’s kits are always very generous so, fresh from testing Madalynne’s Lawren, I hoped there would be enough to make some sort of bodysuit.

There wasn’t enough for the bodice so thought I would use the Cloth Habit Watson bra as the plunging neckline and stretch cups should work well in a body suit. As with many of my makes the detail came as I went along.

The first step was to draft the pattern pieces. I put on one of the longline versions of the Watson I had made. Then I tied a piece of elastic around my waist and asked my husband to measure the distance from the bottom of the band to the elastic. I traced off the Lawren front panty piece. From the waist line I added the 2” needed, taking into account the allowance for the fold back of the band elastic, and then placed the frame piece on this line. After I graded from a medium waist to small hips I used a curved ruler to smooth from the cradle to the waist and then the leg line.

For the back piece I traced off the Lawren, added the 2” again and then placed the back band on this line at the side seam. From the side I used the curved ruler to draw a line to the centre back. Then I used the front piece to reshape the back piece to match at the sideseam.

Now I had my pattern pieces I could decide how to use the fabric and lace. I wanted two layers of mesh for the front but this wouldn’t leave enough for the back so I looked in my stash and found this beautiful ribbing fabric from a previous #tmcollabratory which was just enough for the back.

Next I made the cups. The lace was just wide enough to have the stretch in the right direction. I knew I wanted the lace starting from the centre so it flowed seamlessly from the cup but the actual placement was decided by the width of the lace. If you look at the middle picture you can see the corner missing from the top right. I worked out what would be caught in the seam and armhole elastic. I made sure the lace hit the leg line at the same point.

With the lace stitched to the front piece I could attach the cups. I cut out the frame in sheer lining and enclosed the cups between this and the front, topstitching down through all layers to flatten and keep in place.

Then I moved on to the back. I placed the lace the same as the front. Again I was a little corner short but this time it was too big to be caught in the seam.

I found a scrap of lace that matched and placed underneath. I used a small zigzag to attach and then cut back to stitching. Before attaching the front and back I cut out a back band from mesh that I attached to the sheer lining. This was so I didn’t have to attach band elastic to the sheer front. Once I had sewn the side seams I basted all the layers together so they didn’t slide around when I attached the top elastic.

The idea was to not see the bottom band elastic so I attached as close to the cup as I could using the widest three step zigzag on my machine and trimmed the lining back to the stitching. For stability I made the straps long enough to attach to the bottom band and stitched through all layers to prevent the mesh from rolling when putting on. The stitching is not noticeable on the lace back. it all worked out really well. A good colour match thread does help.

I finished the leg with just elastic as I had no more lace left and I think the design suited a clean finish. The only item I had to add to the kit was some snap tape which had just arrived in my Madalynne order. For the back you attach to the gusset lining on the 1/4” line, fold to the right side, tuck in the sides and sew along the opposite edge.

For the front you attach to the right side and tuck to the wrong side. The issue for me is that you would see the snap tape through the sheer front. So I cut a piece of a folded piece of rib fabric the same width and deep enough for the folded back tape. I attached to the wrong side of the front with raw edges together. The sides are covered by the tucked in tape.

And to finish I thought would include some close ups of the finished bodysuit. Even starting with two great patterns that fit well I was still overwhelmed by how gorgeous this looks. Got so many ideas for more!

Bra-A-Week Challenge - Anyone else keeping up?

I am a big fan of Emerald Erin and her Bra-A-Week challenge has been a great source of inspiration to take my makes to a new level. This ties in nicely with being part of this years #tmcollaBRAtory which I have talked about in previous posts. So I thought I would post a round up of some particularly pleasing recent makes.

First off is my most recent make which uses Erin’s idea for creating stripes by sewing down pleated tulle. I had just received a huge order from Tailor Made which included some beautiful autumnal colours. What I hadn’t realised until it arrived was that the olive tulle was a perfect match with the leaf lace. Then I needed a pattern that would showcase both the lace and the striped tulle.

I couldn’t decide between the Orange Lingerie Marlborough or the Emerald Erin Black Beauty, both of which I have made numerous times as they both fit perfectly. In the end I decided to use the Marlborough as the power bar is part of the cup and I wouldn’t loose the sheerness of the one layer. Also the lace has quite a deep scallop and the upper cup of the Marlborough fitted perfectly.

Creating the stripes was a lengthy process as I wanted to be precise with the pleat. First I had to decide which way to pleat the tulle. This had to be lengthwise as I only had 1/2 yard but full width. Using a chalk marker I drew lines at 1” intervals and then folded from line to line, pinning and then basting. Then I had to choose what thread colour to use. As I didn’t have a green close enough I decided to use the beige contrast so I would need to be super neat! Using knife pleats meant that one side of the fold would be on top and the other side on the reverse. The reverse stitch of my machine is pretty good but I still decided to stitch from the right side. Luckily I have a great edge foot which I set at 1/16th and could sit against the edge of the fold.

The next decision was what to use as lining. Looking through my stash I found some sheer lining which matched the lace and I really liked the two tone effect under the olive tulle. To make sure I cut the pieces exactly mirrored I folded the pleats and pinned in place. Then I had to decide how to place the pattern pieces so I didn’t have any silly edges and it would look right in a seam allowance. I also chose to use the tulle for the frame rather than a lace band. I finished the bra as normal and moved on to matching underwear.

I had to scratch my head a little to decide how to bring both the tulle and lace into underwear. Both have some give in one direction so I wanted a pattern that could use this. Looking through my patterns I thought I would try an Ohhhlulu Grace and use the lace scallop lengthwise for the side panels. I didn’t have enough tulle to pleat the back and only partially for the front but was enough to look fine.

I used two layers of the lace for each side panel using the full width. I used chalk to mark the seam allowance on the tulle and a red Frixon pen for the lace. I placed the lace over the tulle lining up the seams allowances. Then I stitched around the scallop and through the seam allowance and cut back to the stitching. Finally I used fold over elastic for the waist with soft lingerie elastic for the leg.

Although I had made a size bigger than normal to make up for the lack of stretch they are a little snug so I decided to make the Orange Lingerie Montgomery using the lace and some matching super soft and stretchy mesh as an alternate.

I was so pleased with the result. It’s hard to go wrong with such fabulous supplies and patterns I know fit well which brings me smoothly on to my October make for #TMCollaBRAtory. I had a gorgeous embroidered tulle lace bra kit and wanted to bring out the beautiful colours. The kit came with black tulle but it was little dark to bring out the delicate blue and purple flowers so out came the stash and I decided on what was called mauve on the EvielaLuve website. Then the usual dilemma of what pattern to use to showcase the gorgeous lace. Again a search through my patterns brought me to the Orange Lingerie Boylston. it has a deep upper cup and wide straps.

My first step was to take off the seam allowance of the upper cup and straighten the line. I then used tulle on the fold for the upper cup edge and then placed the lace over the tulle angling down from the top outer edge to the centre front seam allowance. For the lower cup pieces I basted a layer of tulle to each piece and treated as one. Then I used another layer of tulle for a lining so I could enclose the upper cup. The lace can’t be mirrored so it is a case of finding a balance for bridge and side frame. Again I basted one layer of tulle to each piece and then lined with tulle so I could enclose the seams and the front of the bra would have the same level of sheerness.

I wasn’t sure how I would make the straps but as this was a kit for a bra I thought i would cut out the front panel for a Montgomery brief and see what I was left with. I started with the straps in the tulle. There wasn’t enough lace to cover completely so I cut into two pieces and placed at an angle ensuring the low point of the scallop would hit the 3/8” line where the elastic would be sewn. For a flat and neat finish I slipped the strap in between the tulle and lace of the upper cup.

Both sets I could just sit and look at. Although I seem to enjoy deciding as I go along there is often a trigger that sends me in a particular direction!

Bra-A-Week Challenge - Emerald Erin Black Beauty and Orange Lingerie Devonshire

Confined to the house with a lot of time on my hands and inspired by Emerald Erin I am trying to up my game and play around with patterns for some different looks. So I am proud to present an Emerald Erin Black Beauty with neon stretch lace and Orange Lingerie Devonshire with half cups.

The neon lace from Tailor Made for this week is a stark contrast to the pale lilac of the previous week but the sun was out when I started and just said “please use me”. I had wanted to make a bra with a sheer edge cup and thought the Black Beauty (although it requires stable fabric) would be a good place to start as I could use a mixture of the two versions and tweak for the stretch lace. The first decision was to choose the tulle. I came across the pistachio I had left from a previous Black Beauty and I thought it would look perfect as it picked up the small amount of green in the neon.

I used two layers of folded tulle for each cup. To make sure the tulle folded flat I folded the smooth side over the less smooth side and then they stuck together. I placed the lace over the upper cup piece and cut in place that way up. Using a layer of lace and tulle I encased the upper cup.

I decided to use the lace edge on the power bar so, again, I placed over the pattern piece to get the low point of the scallop in the right place. Then I cut the tulle from this piece. This then influenced which colour elastic to use as the yellow looked better underneath than the pink. With the cups done I moved on to deciding how to make the cradle and bands.

Deciding on the mint fastener I first had to adjust the back band to accommodate the extra height. I decided to use the lace for the back bands together with a layer of soft powernet. Rather than use the lace all over I decided to bring in some more tulle and used this on the bridge. For stability I used two layers as one with sheer cup lining for stability. Again the yellow elastic looked better under the tulle. The beige channeling was chosen as this was the least obtrusive. To keep the front edge clean I closed off, sewing through the channeling and seam allowance only and then hand stitched to the front .

I thought the perfect partner would be the Studio Costura Vera Panties utilising the mint strapping. As the lace does not mirror I redrafted the back piece so I could use elastic and have the scallop edge on the waist. I took off the back seam and added the width of the elastic to the leg on the back pattern piece. I only had four gold sliders and no rings so I also had to adjust how I fit the straps. I used sliders for the front and tucked them in on the second pass of the elastic giving a really clean finish.

For the back I attached wrong side to wrong side and then folded back to stitch in place for another clean finish. Another fabulous combination but still hoping enough for another panty.

Not much left but I managed to squeeze out an Evie la Luve Chloe thong. I must admit to not being a big thong fan but with enough depth to the sides this makes for a pretty comfortable fit. I cut out the mesh first and then fitted what I had left over the front with just enough for the back as well. The mint fold over elastic was perfect.

I just love this set and very different to the set of the previous week.

I had been waiting for the right design to come along for this very beautiful lilac tulle from Tailor Made and as with most of my makes someone releases a new pattern or hack that ticks all the boxes. Orange Lingerie posted a tutorial on how to turn the 3/4 Devonshire into a half cup and my mind was set. The adjustments are quite simple, however, I did make up a paper cup to check there was adequate coverage. Then on to choosing what colours to use with it. So out came white and various shades of pink and lilac.

I made choices as I went along as one affected another. First I decided on a very soft pink tulle which gave a pink hue and I preferred the more pink/lilac elastic over the pure lilac. Then I had some very pale lilac shimmery powernet which looks amazing but it is not showing up well in the pictures. I tried to break up the all over look of the lace by positioning the flower on the side of the frames only. The placing of the cup pieces on the lace is problematic as the lace cannot be mirrored but I think I achieved a good balance. Although I do have a pattern to make a fastener I did a quick makeover of a white fastener. I covered the front of the eye side only so the plush back was still against my skin and covered both sides of the hook side.

Then on to the very glamorous straps which was my attempt to achieve a RTW look I had seen. I used a strip of the lace tulle with one of the lining tulle for colour consistency. The front strap is fabric for this pattern so I ensured the strips were cut with no stretch in the length and used 1/4 seams on both long edges and turned right side out. I still wanted the comfort of plush elastic so I place over a piece of strap elastic and sewed down the middle. Then I marked a line every two inches and stitched across so I could gather to the width of the elastic. Well impressed with the look and still comfortable!

The obvious choice for underwear was another Orange Lingerie pattern, the Montgomery Brief as you can use non stretch fabric for the front panel. I’ve made this numerous times but I think this has to be the prettiest and so comfortable with the super soft mesh I found in my stash. With just a small amount of lace tulle left I managed to use this for an overlay on the Evie la Luve Binky, another favourite of mine using the direction of the stretch across the body. I used the white fold over elastic as I didn’t want it to overwhelm the single layer mesh. Amazingly pretty and feminine as well as comfortable. What more can you ask for when we are all spending so much time in t-shirts and joggers!