Pattern testing the Eloise for Madalynne and all things lingerie

With so much going on this year sewing has been either somewhat manic or non existent. So, I thought it was a good time to sit down and record the new patterns and projects I have been working on.

First up we have the incredibly gorgeous Eloise, the latest pattern released by Madalynne. When we met in London earlier in the year she asked if I was interested in pattern testing! I said yes without knowing what the pattern would be and I could not believe how lucky I was when the file landed in my inbox. This is just so me and I had all the supplies ready from a previous order which Maddie had brought to the meet and greet hosted by The New Craft House.

I made the panty first. My measurements suggested a small and from the pattern pieces this looked about right. At this point I didn’t have the strap lengths other than that the pieces are initially all cut to the same size. I attached to the back and pinned in place at the front where they lay flat. I let the elastic out a little as my waist measurement is about two sizes bigger than my hips.

The bralette is based on the Barrett for which I made a large. I made up a test mesh band in the large but this came up big so I went for a medium but kept the height of the large at the cup seam. The pattern has a 1/4” seam allowance so if you use a different width elastic you need to place off the edge. So I also adjusted the top edge of both cup pieces as well as the band piece so I could place the elastic on the edge.

For extra support I used strong powernet for the lining. This is bulky if you try to enclose seams so I opened up and top stitched in place, trimming back to the stitching and still looks pretty neat. The only other adaptation was to use ribbon enclosed in fold over elastic as my spaghetti strapping was very stretchy. This would provide extra support whilst maintaining the look of the pattern.

I cannot believe how fabulous this set looks and still be so comfortable. The wide elastic is so good. What surprised me is the fit of the panty. It is described as “a high rise, cheeky style”. Not what I would normally choose but worked amazingly way for me - very flattering!

My next set was a while in the planning. I bought some stretch velvet from Funkifabrics but just couldn’t find any lace that I thought looked right. Then on a recent trip to Sew Wardrobe I found what I was looking for. Then Fit2Sew had a black Friday sale and I ordered a load of black cherry items as well as Pin Up Girls Amethyst. I have previously adjusted my Ruby pattern for lace but thought it easier not to have to adjust every size.

My first thought was to make a high waist brief but I wanted to make more of a feature of the beautiful velvet elastic that I had bought with the lace. Then I thought of the Evie la Luve Binky (Style 4). As soon as I cut out the pieces I thought it was going to be fabulous. The tulle lace is not stretch and cannot be mirrored. However, there is some mechanical give and is such a small piece. I did line with mesh and add some elastic to cover the edge.

Then on to the bra. I still hadn’t decided what bra to make as I wanted to see what it was like to work with the velvet. The only issue I found is that it was quite slippery so I basted more than I would normally do. You can even press it and top stitching was fine. My first thought was to make a lace upper cup with lace strap and then a lace frame. Then I realised I didn’t have enough lace left for the frame. So I split the frame in effect making a bridge and side frame. The lace was only just deep enough and had to cut into the scallop but this would be hidden by the elastic.

I lined the bridge with tulle. Then I stabilised the sides frames by fusing to some duoplex with Misty Fuse. Another product I found out through Beverly Johnson’s classes. The black cherry power net was not quite the right colour for me so I used the velvet lined with stretch mesh. It all turned out so beautiful. The bow came with the bra making kit. Not really a bow person but the lace was a little plain at this point and I thought the addition worked really well. I had made both patterns before so I was confident about the fit.

Another success. Even the inside of the bra looks great - glad I waited to get the right colours.

Having just come out of hospital thinking about the benefits of a wire free bra Orange Lingerie launched the Lexington. It reminded me of the “cross your heart” bras my mum wore. I thought using this gorgeous black/gold lace from Evie la Luve that it would give it a glamorous retro feel. The bra uses cut and sew foam that is enclosed between the fabric and lining. For the lining I used a bamboo knit which is super soft. It came out slightly too big but wearable as I made my normal size and hadn’t realised how much weight I had lost in hospital.

Then within a few weeks the Munroe brief followed. Just a perfect match. The dilemma was the size to make. My hips are four sizes smaller than my waist. Then to be able to use the lace I had to cut against the stretch. So I went for the in between size.

A big fan of Orange Lingerie patterns I love the attention to detail especially that the waist elastic join is covered by ribbon. The big question was the fit. As expected with powernet panels they are a sturdy fit exaggerated by the fact there is little stretch in the lace. I allowed for more elastic for the waist and this makes them wearable but when I make again I will grade between the sizes. The look is fabulous and there are now tutorials on making a split lower cup and/or cutting away the bridge as well as a high leg cheeky variation which I want to to try.

Then to finish I was fortunate enough to test the Studio Costura Vera panties. I made all three versions of this bikini style brief. Version 1 is for knit fabrics and the fit was perfect. Version 2 is lace and although I made the same size it came up a little small which is probably because of the difference in the stretch of the lace compared to that of thee cotton lycra. I went up a size and was thrilled with the look and fit of this lace and strap version.

In between all of this I did find time for some non lingerie sewing and I will share some pictures soon.